The Cuisine of the South

Chapter 3The Cuisine of the SouthAmerican Regional CuisineThe Southern StatesAlabama- “The Yellowhammer State”  Arkansas- “The Natural State” Georgia- “The Peach State”Kentucky- “The Bluegrass State”  Mississippi- “The Magnolia State”North Carolina- “The Tarheel State”  South Carolina- “The Palmetto State”  Tennessee- “The Volunteer State”New SettlersAfter the Carolinas were founded in 1670, the first wave of settlers moved south and west, eventually crossing the Appalachian Mountains into Kentucky.The Great Philadelphia Wagon Road, called the Philly Road, was completed in the 1750s and linked Philadelphia to South Carolina.The immigrants traveling down the Philly Road were typically of Irish, Scottish, Welsh, English, and German descent.From Augusta, Georgia, wagons left the Philly Road and followed the nation’s second road, the Upper Federal Road, through Georgia and Alabama to bring goods to market towns like Columbus, Mississippi. A second wave of immigrants split off from the Philly Road in North Carolina in the 1790s to settle in the Blue Ridge Mountains and the valleys and plateaus of Tennessee.The Old SouthThe Old South can be defined as the states of the pre–Civil War period from 1820 to 1860 .Those states included: North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Mississippi, and AlabamaArkansas became part of the United States with the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 and received statehood in 1836.During the pre-Civil War period, the main cash crop in all of the Southern states was cotton.The tobacco and cotton plantations led the economic growth of the South.The New SouthThe Reconstruction era began with the emancipation of the slaves after the Civil War Cotton plantations, small family farms, subsistence farming, and sharecropping defined the region’s economy.By 1900 the expansion of Southern railways resulted in transportation of cotton textiles, tobacco and forest productsThe iron, steel, and coal industries became the benchmarks of the New SouthDuring the 1920s cotton was still the region’s main cash crop, others being rice, sugar, and tobacco.The cultivation of apples, peaches, peanuts, pecans, and soybeans also began about this time.President Roosevelt’s New Deal in 1933 allowed Southern farmers to replace 50 percent of the topsoil depleted by cotton acreage with soybeans, peanuts, hay, wheat, and truck crops.Truck crops included fruits such as peaches, apples, grapes, watermelon, cantaloupe, and blueberriesWhen Rice Was KingThe introduction and successful cultivation of rice was a significant development in colonial South Carolina.From the mid-1700s to the late 19th century, South Carolina was the nation’s leading rice producer and rice was exported by the ton.Rice cultivation required intensive labor and provided the basis for an extensive slave-based plantation economy.Charleston was an affluent port serving wealthy plantation owners in rice production. Rice became a staple used frequently in the cooking of the Low Countryan area of swampy marshes, inlets, and bayous that extends from Orangeburg, South Carolina, to the coast, and the length of the state from the North Carolina border to Georgia’s Savannah RiverRice was added to casseroles, soups, breads, and pudding.The Civil War, hurricanes, and the end of slavery took their toll on the rice industry in South Carolina.By the end of the 1800s, most rice production had moved to Texas, California, Arkansas, and Mississippi.Southern PlantationsThe agricultural economy and much of life in the South revolved around plantations.A complete plantation complex as it existed in the 18th and 19th centuries functioned as a small self-sustaining town.The mansion for the owner and his family was generally flanked by a number of outbuildings including the overseer’s house, slave quarters, summer kitchen, smokehouse, icehouse, poultry house, cotton barn, and corn house.Slaves raised crops, tended livestock, and cultivated gardens.The smokehouse was an integral component of every plantation a cured ham represents one of the original elements of the Southern diet.Most plantations kept a variety of domesticated fowl, including chickens, ducks, geese, pigeons, and turkeys.Chickens were the most popular, and Southern fried chicken is a mainstay of the traditional Sunday dinner.Controversial as it was, this lifestyle became known as “Southern hospitality,” and even those who lived in humble circumstances prided themselves on being gracious and welcoming to guests.The African InfluenceThe food and style of cooking in the South was profoundly influenced by the African slaves.They introduced many now basic foods, such as okra, yams, black-eyed peas, collard greens, sesame seeds, and watermelon.They also brought cooking techniques that had been familiar to them in West Africa, such as deep fat frying.Working as plantation cooks both during and after slavery, they were considered to be even better cooks than the French chefs who had been brought to America.Southern food replaced the plain, bland English cooking and African Americans developed much of what is now thought of as Southern regional cooking.But the slave cooks had to be creative and inventive when they cooked for their own familiesThey were provided only the waste products after preparing the finer cuts of meat for their owners.Pork was the staple meat of the region, and it was rendered into lard while the hog’s skin was fried and called “cracklings” Other ingredients commonly used by slaves included hoofs, ears, tails, brains, and intestinesThey relied on their African traditions to combine complementary ingredients with small portions of meat stretched to flavor vegetable dishes The term soul food referred to food made with feeling and care, and that came from the soul, or one’s memoryThe Gullah CultureFor many years, Fripp Island, St. Helena’s Island, and the nearby Sea Islands were cut off from mainstream South Carolina. As a result, a small group of freed African- American slaves, known as “Gullahs,” were able to preserve their culture.The Gullahs came from what is now Sierra Leone in West Africa.Most notable was their language, a mixture of contemporary English, older English, and African.They developed their own music and their own rice and fish dishes, and they wove grass baskets that were both sturdy and colorful.Food in this culture took the form of one-pot meals and are represented by recipes such as:Frogmore stew, a blend of shrimp, blue crab, sausage, potatoes, and cornRed riceHoppin’ John Okra soupShrimp and gritsPilauPeanut soupRed beans and riceMountain CookingWhen the first pioneers came to the Southern Appalachian Highlands that now are made up of the states of Kentucky, Tennessee, and Alabama, they faced a constant struggle against known and unknown dangers.But the hardy English, Scotch, Irish, Germans, and others tamed the wilderness and left their mark on the region.Industrious and ingenious, these early settlers cultivated fruit, berries, and nuts, as well as grew vegetables, collected honey, and had livestock.By necessity, tastes were simple, food was plain, and thrift was a natural way of life.Mountain Cooking Cont.Cooking was done open fireplaces and brick ovens and was more of an art than a science.Fruits and vegetables were preserved in brine, sugar, or both, in order to have foods for the winter months.A great variety of sweet-and-sour preserves, pickles, chow-chows, and relishes were put out at every meal.Ducks, quail, doves, wild turkeys, and geese were the most sought-after game birds.Other small quarry such as rabbit, squirrel, and raccoon were also used and often roasted, fried, stewed, or smothered in a sauce or gravy.Humane Treatment of Farmed AnimalsThere is high consumer demand for humanely raised meat (beef, pork, and chicken) and other animal products. The demand is clear enough that many food service operators have taken steps to insure that the animals used in their products have been humanely treated.Individual states have passed specific laws protecting farm animals, and the federal government continues to have hearings on issues surrounding the humane treatment of animals.Third-party verified humane certification programs have comprehensive standards developed by animal welfare organizations that focus on the needs of the animals. The labels are approved by the USDA for use on products and compliance in independently verified.Third-Party Certification ProgramsSome of those human certification programs include:American Humane Certified (American Humane Association)Dairy, eggs, chicken, turkey, beef, bison, goat, lamb, pork, veal Its auditing process includes 24/7 video monitoring of all live areas, including transportation and slaughter facilities.Certified Humane (Humane Farm Animal Care and many animal advocacy organizationsDairy, eggs, chicken, turkey, beef, goat, lamb, pork Species-specific standards require a nutritious diet without antibiotics or hormones.Animals raised with shelter, resting areas, sufficient space and the ability to engage in natural behaviorsThe program requires that indoor housing systems adhere to strict air quality and lighting standards in addition to those that meet the animals' behavioral and physiological needs.Food Alliance CertifiedDairy, eggs, chicken, beef, bison, goat, lamb, pork For sustainable farms and food handling facilities that ensures safe and fair labor conditions, better treatment of animals, wildlife habitat protection, and stewardship of the ecosystem.Requires animals to have access to sunlight, fresh air and water, pasture, adequate food and shelter, enough space to engage in natural and social behaviors, and minimal fear and stress during handling, transport and slaughter.The use of growth hormones and non-therapeutic antibiotics is prohibited.Carolinas BarbecueWithin the debate of barbecue, all cooks agree that true barbecue is slow cooking distinguished by the cut of meat and the technique used to cook it.In the Carolinas, pork is the traditional barbecue meat.Generally, the whole hog or shoulder is pit-cooked using direct heat.Slow-cooking at a low temperature ensures that the pig is cooked thoroughlyThe resulting pulled and chopped pork may be served with a sauce based on vinegar, water, salt, and pepper.Memphis BarbecueMemphis barbecue also relies on pork, especially the ribs and shoulderThe meat is smoked over indirect heat and then finished over direct heat.With parts rather than the whole hog, cooking requires less time, space, and fuel. There is debate as to whether the meat or ribs are better when coated with a tomato-based sauce during the cooking process, resulting in a wet, or sticky, barbecue, or seasoned and served with sauce on the side, known as “dry barbecue.”Texas BarbecueTexans use beef for their barbecue, and the preferred cut is the brisket. Long, slow cooking over indirect heat results in very tender meat that is cut across the grain, rather than pulled or chopped.The meat may be seasoned with a dry rub, but the smoke is what provides the flavor.A wet mop is a sauce that is used during cooking and does not include sugar or tomato sauce, which might burn during cooking.A savory, slightly sweet tomato-based sauce is served on the side, with pickles and sliced onions.Glazed pork ribs or sausage with sauce on the side may also be included in a traditional Texas barbecue.Kansas City BarbecueTradition in Kansas City calls for both beef and pork (especially the ribs) cooked over indirect heat, but the emphasis is on the sauce.The preference is for a thick, tomato-based sauce with a sweet-and-sour flavor.The sauce is brushed on the meats as a finishing coat during cooking, as well as served on the side.Traditional dishes to serve with barbecue include beans, potato salad, and coleslaw.The style of potato salad, whether mayonnaise-based or mustard-based, the type of slaw— grated, chopped, or shredded—with a creamy or vinegar dressing using red or green cabbage, and the choice of sweet or savory beans depends on the cook and the region and further individualizes a barbecue meal.Curried Peanut Soup with Scallions and QuailThe curry in the recipe represents the influence the British and the West Indies had on the cuisine.The peanut plant probably originated in Peru or Brazil in South America.South American’s made pottery in the shape of peanuts and decorated jars with peanuts go as far back as 3,500 years ago. Africans were the first to introduce peanuts to North America beginning in the 1700s .They were used mainly for oil, food, and as a cocoa substitute. Their popularity grew in the late 1800s when the circus wagons traveled across the country and vendors called “hot roasted peanuts!” to the crowds. In the early 1900s peanuts became a significant agricultural crop when the boil weevil threatened the South’s cotton crop.Peanuts are the 12th most valuable cash crop grown in the United States.Crispy Fried Egg with Country Ham and Red-Eye VinaigretteRed-Eye normally has a reference to coffee. A red- eye “drink” may have a shot of espresso in it. Southern Red-Eye gravy is made with coffeeSeared Triggerfish with Toasted Orzo and Roasted Tomato Sauce Triggerfish is abundantly available in South Carolina salt waters during the fall months.It is one of the best sustainable substitutes for grouper and snapper that time of year.Chef’s Tip: Triggerfish has a lot of pin bones and often it is best to cut the filet into 2 small pieces and cut out the vein of bones in the middle.Slow-Cooked GreensGreens are nutrition powerhouses, loaded with beta-carotene and vitamin C, calcium, and fiber.Collard, mustard, and turnip greens belong to the cruciferous family, which includes broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower.Potlikker: The liquid left over from a meal of greens, field pea, pork, or other items. Often served as a broth, potlikker was a staple among the field hands of the South. Peach CobblerA cobbler is a home-style baked fruit dessert, usually made with a top crust.The crust and/or topping will have different versions depending on the region of the country.Cobblers might have been originally made with a biscuit topping. The biscuits were dropped onto the fruit in small rounds, giving it the appearance of a cobbled road, hence the name.Cobblers can also be made with cake batter or cookie dough toppings.Shrimp with Pimiento Cheese Grits Pimento Cheese is traditionally a mixture of grated sharp cheddar, mayonnaise and diced pimiento peppers.It is “The Pate of the South” or “The Caviar of The South.” When it first appeared in the early 20th century it was a filling for finger sandwiches.The original version was quite different. It started as a way to combine two newly-available products of industrial food manufacturing in the North: cream cheese and canned pimentos. Fried Chicken Thighs with Pickled Okra and Stewed TomatoesFor a true Southern pan-fried chicken, combine: 1 pound (448 g) lard½ cup (4 ounces, 120 ml) butter, and ½ cup (4 ounces, 112 g) diced country-style ham over low heat and simmer for 30 minutes, skimming as needed, until the butter is clarified, strain and use for frying chickenBrining poultry (soaking in a saltwater solution) before cooking serves two purposes: it helps the flesh retain moisture and it seasons all the way through To make the brine, stir kosher salt into cold water until dissolvedUse the proportion of ¼ cup (56 g) salt to 1 quart (1 l) waterDo not use table salt in this formula or it will be too salty Carolina Pulled Pork Barbecue SandwichPull the meat apart or shred using 2 forksPeanut BrittleThis great treat came out of the South in the late 19th century, when people were searching for new products and ideas for using the peanut crop. Caramelized Watermelon and Mixed Greens with Shallot-Citrus DressingLook for melons with a bright skin; dullness may indicate it is old.Look for the “field spot” a large splotch of creamy-to-yellow or even orange color. This spot indicates the melon was allowed to sit in the field, maturing and producing sugar. Avoid melons where the field spot is white, pale green or nonexistent.The melon should be heavy for its size, which indicates it is juicy.Pecan-Encrusted Catfish with Succotash of Corn, Hominy, and Baby Lima BeansCatfish: A freshwater, bottom-feeding fish found in the rivers and lakes of the South.The wild variety has been replaced by the farm-raised variety. Belzoni, Mississippi, is recognized as the Catfish Capital of the World and is famous for its high-quality, farm-raised catfish, which have a fresh, subtle taste and no fishy odor.Breading needs time to firm up before pan-frying for best results. Foods breaded and immediately put into hot oil may have the breading fall away. Letting the breading rest allows for the egg to set.Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast with Haricot Vert, Caramelized Onions, Sweet Potato Fritters and Sweet Tea Lemon JusVidalia Onion: Sweet onion brought from Texas and grown only in a small number of counties around Vidalia, Georgia. The sulfur-deficient soil in this region yields a milder, sweeter onion than those grown in Texas or Hawaii. The peak growing season is late spring, and every onion is set, clipped, harvested, and sized by hand.Banana PuddingSpoon a thin layer of custard onto the bottom of a 4-cup ovenproof baking container.Top with layers of cake cubes and sliced bananas.Spoon more custard over and continue layering, ending with custard on top.Top with meringue, making sure there is a good seal at the edges of the baking pan. Bake until golden brown.