The Cuisine of the Central Plains

Chapter 6The Cuisine of the Central PlainsAmerican Regional CuisineThe Land of Milk and Grain The Central Plains states are the breadbasket and main source of food crops for the United States. The region includes the corn belt and the wheat belt, and has a long history during which cattle “kingdoms” reigned.Expertise in dairy farming has resulted in innovative and extensive cheese making.Meats, game, and poultry are staples of the Central Plains, and the lakes, streams, and rivers of the region supply many varieties of freshwater fish.The Central Plains Illinois- Known as “The Prairie State,” Illinois’s rich black soil makes it one of the leading agriculture states in the nation. Corn is Illinois’s chief crop, though the state also produces large amounts of soybeans, oats, wheat, and livestock.Indiana- “The Hoosier State,” also known as the “Crossroads of America.” Corn and soybeans are grown in every county.Iowa- “The Hawkeye State” raises one-fifth of the nation’s corn and one-quarter of its pork.Kansas- “The Sunflower State” is the nation’s leader in wheat production. Beef is the state’s most valuable farm product.Michigan- “The Wolverine State,” Michigan is so named because early fur traders were often looking for wolverine fur. Heavily forested, the state is prime land for foraging for the highly prized morel mushrooms in spring.Minnesota- “The Gopher State,” where wheat remains a main crop, is a leader in the production of corn, wild rice, dairy goods, and livestock.The Central Plains Cont.Missouri- “The Show Me State,” where farm products from throughout the Great Plains were processed in Missouri for shipment east, and the stockyards of Kansas City were famous for many years.Nebraska- “The Cornhusker State,” where ranching is the most important agricultural industry. Corn is the biggest crop. Nebraska produces about 10 percent of the country’s corn.North Dakota- “The Flickertail State.” Wheat is the most important crop, and much of North Dakota’s wheat goes to making pasta. More waterfowl, like ducks and geese, breed in North Dakota than in any other state.Ohio- “The Buckeye State,” where the rich soil makes Ohio part of the fertile farmland of the corn belt.South Dakota- “The Mount Rushmore State” produces some of the nation’s leading amounts of rye, wheat, and corn. Ranches raise beef cattle and sheep.Wisconsin- “The Badger State,” also known as the “Dairy State,” is world famous for its cheese. With over 1 million milk cows, Wisconsin produces more cheese and milk than any other state.The First TravelersThe first Europeans to travel through the Central Plains were the French fur traders, known as “mountain men,” in the 1600s. Although they were not settlers, they did establish outposts in the region. These outposts were significant because only there could the mountain men obtain food and supplies.Relatively few changes occurred in the Central Plains over the next century and a half.The “Discoverers”In 1803, President Thomas Jefferson purchased the Louisiana Territory from France for $15 million.This event, the Louisiana Purchase, included territory west of the Mississippi River to the Rocky Mountains and north to Canada.Meriwether Lewis and William Clark explored the northern reaches of the new purchase. Lewis and Clark traveled up the Missouri River from St. Louis, crossed the Rocky Mountains, and descended the Columbia River on the West Coast.They gathered geographic and scientific information, and established diplomatic and trade relations with some Native American tribes.They were later followed by Zebulon Pike and Stephen Long, both of whom explored the central Great Plains area.Central Plains History Cont.In 1849, gold was discovered in California signaling the start of the land rush. A few European immigrants and people from other parts of America began to settle in the Great Plains to farm, ranch, build towns, and work on the railroads.The Homestead Act of 1862 encouraged agricultural expansion.The act offered 160 acres virtually free to any citizen willing to develop the land.Farming families settled on the millions of acres traveled over by those who had migrated to more inviting places on the Pacific Coast.The Scandinavian InfluenceBetween 1820 and 1914, over 2 million Scandinavians immigrated to America.Norwegians were the first to arrive, and they began to work along the East Coast as loggers, fishermen, and farmers.Many moved inland, where they found the weather and lands of the Midwest and Central Plains similar to Norway.Around 1840, the Norwegians settled in the area of the upper Mississippi Valley—the region that today makes up much of Minnesota and Wisconsin.Following the Norwegians were many immigrants from Sweden and Denmark, who also settled in the Central Plains. As this westward migration took place, the Mississippi River quickly became a dividing line between the “civilized” East and the “untamed” West.The Central Plains, with the Mississippi River running through the middle, lured new residents with hopes of agricultural wealth and great prosperity.The Scandinavian Influence Cont.The new residents learned how to harvest corn and wild rice.They hunted the wild game of the region, including pheasant, quail, grouse, wild turkey, deer, and buffalo.They fished in the many rivers and lakes, which contain walleye, yellow perch, trout, and pike, and are home to many varieties of duck, geese, and other waterfowl.The vast lands were well suited for farming and for grazing livestock.Rustic stews, breads, and the root vegetables were the traditional foods of Scandinavians.The Scandinavians brought other food traditions from the Old Country, such as cheese and sausage making, and smoking fish and meat.The Eastern European InfluenceAs western migration continued, people from Eastern Europe began to settle in the Central Plains, which also reminded them of their homelands. Germans, Poles, and Austrians settled in Illinois and Iowa, as well as Minnesota and Wisconsin. They farmed the land and raised dairy cattle as their primary source of income.Wisconsin became a popular destination of German and Swedish immigrantsWisconsin and CheeseCheese production began in Wisconsin in the 1830s, and Cheddar cheese was made in the English tradition. Other cheeses from the Old Country were made, such as brie, ricotta, Limburger, mozzarella, feta, and gouda.Two of the three cheeses invented in America—brick and Colby—were first produced in the 1870s.Today, there are over 200 cheese-making plants in Wisconsin alone.Wisconsin is also the number-one dairy state in the country, producing milk, butter, and excellent domestic cheese.Wisconsin And BeerGermans and Bohemians who emigrated to the region brought the art of brewing and their love of beer.The extensive prairies and farmlands of the Central Plains were perfect for growing grains used to produce beer.The region’s major trade areas of St. Louis, Milwaukee, Chicago, Cincinnati, St. Paul, and Kansas City became homes to America’s first breweries.By the end of the 19th century, thousands of breweries had sprung up and began to produce unique beers.The great beer industry went into decline during Prohibition, which began in 1920.By 1933, when Prohibition ended, only 400 of the original breweries were able to reopen for business.German immigrants also brought their expertise in sausage making.The German farmers of the Central Plains regions originated sausage varieties such as knackwurst, bratwurst, liverwurst, Mettwurst, and Thuringer, which are still popular products today.They also built smokehouses to smoke hams, bacon, and fish from the region’s lakes and rivers.German ImmigrantsThe Effect of the RailroadsThe growth of railroads encouraged westward expansion more than any other single development.By the mid-1800s, railroads had connected the East with the West, and the Central Plains became a major hub.Railroads were also responsible for the growth of ranching.Cattle were herded out of Texas to towns on the Great Plains. There they were loaded into specially built rail cars and carried to slaughterhouses in Kansas City, Chicago, and other urban centers.By the late 1800s, cattle drives were no longer necessary.New breeds of cattle that could withstand the harsh conditions could now be fattened on plains grasses and shipped east easily.Ranching became a big business and many of the largest ranches were owned by corporations funded by millions of dollars in stock sold in the East, Britain, and Europe.CornThroughout the 19th century, the size of the corn crop increased as the settlers moved into the western territories.In the mid-1800s, a new hybrid, called Reid’s Yellow Dent, began to be widely cultivated in the Midwest.By 1882, people were referring to the corn-producing states of the Midwest as the Corn Belt.Over 85 percent of all corn grown is dent corn, or field corn, and is used primarily to feed animals and livestock, making it an important American commodity.From 1877 through 1920, American horticulturists developed many new hybrids that became standard on the country’s farms.Mature sweet corn is eaten fresh, boiled and buttered. It is found frozen and cannedCorn is also used to make products such as ethanol, corn syrup, and corn oil. WheatWheat is a grain that was brought to America by the European colonistsIt is a grass whose seed belongs to the cereal grains group, and it contains gluten, the basic structure for forming dough for breads, rolls, and other baked goodsDue to difficulties in cultivation, wheat was not a major crop until the end of the 19th century, when Turkey Red Winter Wheat began to grow well in the Central PlainsThe growth and development of wheat crops in the Central Plains are attributed to Mennonite farmers, originally from the UkraineKansas WheatSix classes of wheat are grown in the United States, and Kansas produces three of them: Hard Red Winter (98 Percent)- High in protein, with strong gluten. Used for yeast breads and rolls.Soft Red Winter (1 Percent)- Used for flat breads, cakes, pastries, and crackers.Hard White (1 Percent)- Used for yeast breads, hard rolls, tortillas, and noodles.The three main parts of the wheat kernel are the endosperm, bran, and germ:Endosperm- Constituting about 83 percent of the total kernel mass, this is the source of white flour. Enriched flour products contained added quantities of riboflavin, niacin, thiamin, and iron.Bran- About 14 percent of the kernel, this part is included in whole wheat flour. Bran is the outer coat and is an excellent source of fiber.Germ- About 2.5 percent of the kernel, this is the embryo or sprouting section of the seed. It is usually separated because it contains the fat that limits the keeping quality of flours.TransportationOne of the original forces behind westward expansion—farmers looking for better land—was also important in the development of the plains states.The railroads provided a way to transport harvested crops to markets.Men like Adolphus Swift and George A. Hormel developed methods of keeping food refrigerated in railcars so that quality and sanitary conditions could be maintained during the long trip.Chicago, a City of DiversityChicago’s stockyards emerged in the late 1800s.With them came a huge migration of newly freed slaves from the South, as well as Irish, Italian, and Polish immigrants seeking new opportunities in the fastest growing city of the Central Plains.Small ethnic communities sprang up, providing a great deal of ethnic and cultural diversity.Even though the stockyards are no longer there, ethnic neighborhoods still exist in Chicago. Hispanic, Swedish, Asian, Jewish, Pakistani, Indian, and Arab cultures, to name a few, are vital communities making up Chicago’s rich cultural diversity.Small enclaves of Russians, African Americans, Italians, Greeks, and Poles contribute to the cuisine found in Chicago today and have allowed Chicago to grow into one of America’s great food cities.Chicago Cont.Some of the greatest chefs in the world are in Chicago, including Charlie Trotter, Rick Bayless, and Michael Foley. These famous chefs and their restaurants have helped support today’s market farmers, who grow and sell crops only for urban markets and restaurants featuring high-quality ingredients. The farmers follow the principle of “farm to table,” indicating that their products are usually less than a day off the vine or out of the ground when sold. The Controversy Over Genetically Modified FoodsIn genetic modification (or engineering; GM) of food plants, scientists remove one or more genes from the DNA of another organism, such as a bacterium, virus, or animal, and “recombine” them into the DNA of the plant they want to alter. Much like developing hybrid species, genetic engineers hope the plant will express the traits associated with the genes. In corn, for example, the genes from a bacterium known as Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt, has been transferred into the DNA of corn. The protein from the Bt genes is able to kill insects, and with this genetic transfer corn is now able to produce its own pesticide. The Pros for Genetic EngineeringThe GM crop industry and its supporters maintain that GM crops are an extension of natural breeding and do not pose different risks from naturally bred crops.The supporters claim the crops are strictly regulated for safety and can be more nutritious than naturally bred crops.They feel there is a benefit to farmers by increasing crop yields while reducing pesticide use.And finally promoters believe GM crops benefit the environment, reduce energy use, and help problems caused by climate change. The Cons of Genetic EngineeringHowever, a large and growing body of scientific and other authoritative evidence shows that these claims may not be true.Other evidence is contradictory and indicates that GM crops are laboratory-made, using technology that different from natural breeding methods and pose different risks from non-GM crops.That the crops are not adequately regulated to ensure safety, and can in fact be toxic, allergenic or less nutritious than their natural counterparts.There is concern that GM crops create problems for farmers, including herbicide-tolerant “superweeds,” compromised soil quality, and increased disease susceptibility in crops. Genetic Engineering TodayToday, the majority of corn, soybeans, cotton, canola, sugar beets grown in the United States are GM.A variety of GM fruits and vegetables are being field-tested, including apple, banana, blueberry, carrot, cranberry, eggplant, grape, grapefruit, lettuce, onion, pea, pepper, persimmon, pineapple, plum, potato, squash, and strawberry.Potential GM animals include pigs genetically altered to produce higher amounts of Omega-3 fatty acids.Scientists at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada, have genetically altered pigs to produce manure that contains up to 75 percent less phosphorus, which is a leading cause of water pollution.Massachusetts-based Aqua Bounty Farms has genetically engineered salmon to grow twice as fast as conventional salmon.Environmentalists worry the transgenic salmon could escape from fish farm pens and interbreed with wild salmon, threatening the species.Roasted Beet and Pickled Rhubarb SaladWisconsin Friday Night Fish FryThe fish fry may sound like a simple concept, but it's also a Wisconsin tradition, from supper clubs in the North Woods to trendy restaurants in Milwaukee.Its interpretation varies widely, but the sides are pretty much consistent: coleslaw, tartar sauce, potato pancakes, rye bread, and applesauce (to spread on top of the pancakes).Depending on which restaurant you visit, the fish is likely beer-battered, pan-fried, or baked.The most popular choices of fish are perch, walleye, and cod.Most of the fish today are deep-fried; deep-frying was not very popular until the 1950s, when commercial deep-fryers were developed and made it possible for small bars and restaurants to offer deep-fried fish. Pork Medallions with Pears and Herbed Israeli CouscousIsraeli couscous (which is sometimes called pearl couscous) is twice as big as regular couscous and is toasted rather than dried. The toasting gives it a nutty flavor and a sturdy composition that helps it stand up to the sauce.Sautéed Green Beans and Cherry TomatoesBeans of different sizes and different ages cook at different rates. There is only one way to tell if a green bean is cooked—by tasting it. Undercooked green beans are tough and rubbery; overcooked beans are mushy. Undercooked beans have an earthy taste. Correctly cooked beans are tender to the bite, still bright green and have a sweet taste. Wisconsin Cheddar and Beer SoupWhen adding cheese to hot liquid, make sure the liquid is 140°–185°F (60°–85°C). If the liquid is too hot, the cheese will curdle rather than melt. This soup is traditionally served with a warm, soft pretzel.Cannellini Beans with Tomatoes and BasilCannellini beans are large white beans with a traditional kidney shape. They have thin skins and a tender, creamy flesh. With a slightly nutty taste and mild earthiness, they hold their shape well and are one of the best white beans for salads. Roast Chicken with Wild Rice, Walnuts, and Dried Fruit StuffingWild rice is not actually rice. It is an annual water-grass seed. It is the only grain native to North America, and it originated in the area of upper Great lakes. 1 cup uncooked wild rice yields 3 to 4 cups cooked wild rice. It typically takes wild rice twice as long to cook as white rice. Cook until the rice is tender and the kernels pop open.Kansas City Barbecued RibsIf a smoky flavor is not desired, the ribs can be cooked in a combination oven at 275°F (135°C) or a traditional oven at 325°F (162.8°C). Numerous varieties of baby back ribs are available in the market. To be classified as baby back ribs, the entire rack of ribs should not exceed 1 3/4 pounds. Larger racks are simply called back ribs.Molasses CookiesMolasses is the dark, sweet, syrupy by-product made during the extraction of sugars from sugarcane and sugar beets.Up until the 1880s, molasses was the most popular sweetener in the United States because it was cheaper than refined sugar.Unlike other types of sweeteners, it is high in minerals.Molasses has a strong, distinct flavor and has half the sweetening power of white sugar.The largest and most dynamic region for sugar beet production is in or close to the Red River Valley of western Minnesota and eastern North Dakota.Planked Whitefish with Green Onion ButterPlanking is a method of cooking fish that the settlers of the region learned from the Native Americans where a whole fish is tied to a large piece of driftwood and placed vertically next to a fire, where it cooks slowly until done. Today, planking is accomplished by placing a fish fillet on a soaked plank of wood—usually cedar, which gives off a tasty and unique flavorThe fillet is then cooked, plank and all, on a grill over a fire or even by baking in an oven. The cedar planks used in this preparation are easy to find at a local building supply store. Cedar roof shingles are usually smooth on one side and the perfect shape for a fish fillet of this size. Be sure to purchase the untreated variety, as some shingles come with a chemical fire retardant that leaves an unpleasant aftertaste on the fishIt is recommended, for sanitary reasons, that they not be reused. The whitefish called for in this Central Plains recipe can be walleye, pike, or yellow perch but any type of round fish or large flatfish, such as halibut or turbot will work wellSmall flatfish, like sole and flounder, should be avoided, as they are too delicate and tend to absorb too much flavor from the wooden planks.Morel Mushrooms with SpinachIf fresh morel mushrooms are unavailable or too expensive, dried morels can be substituted. Dried mushrooms need to be reconstituted prior to using. Boil a small pot of water, add the dried mushrooms, cover, and remove from the heat. Steep the mushrooms 4 to 5 minutes, then remove from the hot water, leaving any debris in the water. Generally, the mushrooms expand to 5 times their dried weight, so to get 10 ounces (280 g) of reconstituted mushrooms, use just 2 ounces (56 g) of dried. The water that the mushrooms steep in is flavorful and can be strained and used in a variety of soups and sauces. In addition, a dried forest mushroom mix is available at a very reasonable cost.