The Cuisine of New England

Chapter 1The Cuisine of New EnglandAmerican Regional CuisineThe New England StatesConnecticut- “The Nutmeg State” Maine- “The Pine Tree State” Massachusetts- “The Bay State”New Hampshire- “The Granite State” Rhode Island- “The Ocean State” Vermont- “The Green Mountain State” “The Sacred Cod”More than any other of the area’s natural resources, the Atlantic cod is recognized as a symbol of the region’s natural heritage. This species is so much a part of the early history of the settlement of the coastal regions, that  a model of the “sacred cod” hangs in the Massachusetts statehouse  Photo courtesy of Mark Kasianowicz, Massachusetts State House Photographer, January 2008.Demographic Trends1620 - The Pilgrims fled England due to religious motives.1880s - Immigrants from Ireland, Italy, and Portugal, began to arrive in New England.Today - Newer  immigrants come from Vietnam and Cape Verde. Massachusetts is home to the third largest Haitian community in the U.S., after New York and Florida.Corn (Maize): The Wampanoag tribe members shared their seeds of native corn plants with instructions to plant and fertilize their crop by planting a tiny fish along with each seedBeans: Kidney beans, string beans, snap beans, butter beans, lima beans, navy peas, and pole beans were planted alongside the cornSquash: Many varieties of squash, including acorn, zucchini, pumpkins, and gourds, were adopted by the colonists. The squash could be eaten fresh or could be dried and stored.“Succotash” A mixture of corn, with any type of beans and squashThe Three SistersPhotography by Ron ManvilleTypical Foods of New EnglandOne pot suppers: Boston Baked Beans, New England Boiled Dinner, Red Flannel Hash, ClambakeVegetables: Corn, Squash, Pumpkin, Root Vegetables, Fiddlehead fernFruit: Apples, Blueberries, Concord grape, CranberryMaple Syrup and Maple Sugar/Molasses:Made by tapping the sap of sugar maple trees and boiling it down to a thick syrup and then to a sugarIt takes 60 gallons of sap to produce 1 1/2 gallons of syrup.Maple-flavored syrups may contain 10 percent or less of actual maple syrup. Grains:Regular cornmeal is ground between metal rollers and the hull and germ are removed so the texture is finer.Stone-ground is ground between two stones. The hull and germ of the corn kernel are usually left in, so the texture is coarser.LobstersLive Maine lobster is available year-round, with the bulk of the catch harvested in the summer into the fallLobsters grow by molting, or shedding their shells. Just after they molt, they are soft and fragile until their new shell has hardened. June and July is the peak molting seasonIt takes about 25 molts over 5 to 7 years for a lobster to grow to a minimum legal size, 1 pound Newly molted lobsters are called “soft-shell” lobstersPhotography by Ron ManvilleLobsters by SizeThe New England states have very strict laws governing lobstering.The legal minimum length of the carapace is 3 ¼ inches. Lobsters under this length are called “shorts” or “snappers” and must be thrown back into the ocean.The maximum legal length of the carapace is 5 inches; these lobsters are called “jumbo.” A minimum-size lobster will weigh around 1 pound, while a maximum-size lobster will weigh between 2 and 4 pounds.Lobster is referred to in the industry by different names depending on its weight. Market sizes range from “chickens” (1 to 1 1/8 pounds) to “jumbos” (over 3 ½ pounds).The most popular size is between 1 ¼ and 1 ½ pounds.Other terminology regarding lobsters includes: CORAL: The roe inside the female lobster that, when cooked, turns from black to orange. It is chopped and used in the stuffing for baked lobster or eaten plain.CULL: A lobster with only one claw.PAQUETTE: A female lobster with black, fertilized eggs under the tailTOMALLEY: The liver of the lobster, considered delicacyInfluence of the Sea – The Grand BanksTwo ocean currents meet in the Grand Banks: the cold Labrador Current and the warm Gulf Stream.The Grand Banks have the most productive fisheries in the world, including cod, swordfish, scallop, and lobster. Also popular are the flatfish, halibut, flounder, fluke, and dabs.Small ocean fish like mackerel, porgies, butterfish, and smelts are also in abundant supply.Swordfish, shark, tuna, bluefish, Atlantic salmon, and striped bass come North in the spring and leave before winter arrives. Shellfish such as lobsters, crabs, scallops, oysters, clams, mussels, periwinkles, sea urchins, and even shrimp live in the icy waters. Sustainable Fishing ConcernsOverfishing- catching fish faster than they can reproduce may be the single biggest threat to ocean ecosystemsIn the past decade, Atlantic populations of halibut, Bluefin tuna and yellowtail flounder all joined a list of endangered species The breeding population of Atlantic Bluefin tuna may disappear completely in a few yearsThe cod fishery collapsed completely in the early 1990sMany of the fish and other animals caught in fishing gear are thrown away as unwanted bycatch. Alternative Fishing PracticesAquaculture, the practice of farm-raising fish and shellfish will soon surpass wild fisheries as the main source of seafood for the world. Ponds enclose fish in a coastal or inland body of fresh or salt water. Shrimp, catfish and tilapia are commonly raised in this manner.In the U.S., farmers use raceways to raise rainbow trout. Raceways allow farmers to divert water from a waterway, like a stream or well, so that it flows through channels containing fish. Recirculating systems raise fish in tanks in which water is treated and recycled through the system. Almost any finfish species such as striped bass, salmon and sturgeon can be raised in recirculating systems. Shellfish aquaculture means that farmers grow shellfish on beaches or suspend them in water by ropes, plastic trays or mesh bags. Endangered FishAccording to the International Union for Conservation of Nature's (IUCN) Red List of endangered species, 1,414 species of fish, or 5 percent of the world's known species, are at risk for extinction. Some of the most familiar include:Bluefin TunaAcadian RedfishAtlantic HalibutChilean SeabassIntervention is also being implemented by organizations such as Blue Ocean Institute and the Monterey Bay Aquarium.Many concerned national, state, and local organizations publish seafood guides to help consumers make informed choices when buying seafood.New England Clam Chowder Chowder: From the French chaudeau, meaning “hot water” New England Clam Chowder: A creamy mix of clams, onions, and potatoesManhattan Clam Chowder: A tomato base with vegetables added to a brothVermont Clam Chowder: A clear broth with clams, onions, and potatoes.Marinated Tomato and Zucchini Salad with Deep-Fried Potato-Crusted Sea ScallopBay Scallops: Small scallops that average 70 to 100 per pound. Mild and sweet, bay scallops are considered the best-tasting of the scallops.Cape Scallops: Found during the winter months, cape scallops are noted for their sweet flavor and are best served raw.Sea Scallops: Range from 20 to 40 per pound. New Bedford, Massachusetts, is the largest sea scallop port in the country. Sea scallops have a sweet, rich taste that ranges from mild to briny. Always remove the little moon-shaped strap that holds the muscle to the shell. Photography by Ron ManvilleNew England Boiled Dinner with Horseradish SauceEuropean immigrants adapted their single-pot meat and seafood stews using local ingredients.Braised and pickled beef, a mainstay of Britain and Ireland, became the popular dish called New England Boiled Dinner.Peach and Blueberry CobblerCobbler: A baked, unlined, deep-dish fruit pie with a biscuit or piecrust toppingClams CasinoHardshells, or quahogs, vary in size, from small littlenecks, to cherrystones, to chowder clams. Littlenecks are the choice for raw, halfshell clams. They are the most tender, most expensive, and most sought after. They range from two to three years old.Cherrystones are five to six years old.Large chowder clams can be 30 years old.Soft-shell clams have an oval shell that is thin and brittle. These clams average 1 ½ to 3 inches in length.Their shells cannot close completely because of a protruding siphon.The shell should be clean and the siphon firm and plump, it should retract when touched.The siphon is covered with a dark membrane that is removed before the cooked clam is eaten.Butternut Squash Soup with Bay Scallops and Mushrooms Bay scallops are mild and sweet. The meat is translucent when raw, appearing from milky to pink When cooked, the meat becomes opaque It is important to not overcook the scallops or they become tough and chewyRoasted Turkey Breast with Giblet Gravy and Cranberry SauceTurkey should be cooked until a meat thermometer inserted in thickest part of breast reaches 165°F (74°C).For light texture, do not pack dressing into baking pans or inside a bird. Stuffing that is baked separately is normally called dressing.Chefs typically do not stuff chickens and turkeys in production kitchens. Baking the dressing separately yields better results for the following reasons: Stuffing inside a bird is a breeding ground for bacteria that cause food poisoning.The stuffing needs additional time to heat thoroughly, which results in overcooked poultry.Stuffing poultry and removing the dressing after it is roasted is impractical and time consuming.Glazed TurnipsNative New England ingredients formed the basis of the developing cuisine for the new colonists Root vegetables such as beets, celeriac, carrots, parsnips, rutabagas, turnips, onions, and white and sweet potatoes saw the early farmers through the wintersGingerbread Molasses: A syrup derived during the processing of sugarcane into sugar Molasses was first imported to America from the West Indies. It is commonly found in two varieties: light and dark.Light molasses is used as a syrup.Dark or blackstrap molasses is used primarily as an ingredient.For a spicy gingerbread, add up to ½ teaspoon ground black pepper to the dry ingredients.The dry ginger can be replaced with 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger, for even more moistness. Mix the grated ginger in with the butter.Mini Lobster RollsAmerica lobsters were so abundant in the northeast that they were often used as fertilizer. In the early days, laws were passed forbidding people to feed servants lobster more than twice a week. Improvements in U.S. transportation infrastructure in the 19th and 20th century brought fresh lobster to distant urban areas, popularity grew.Opinions vary on how best to cook lobster. Some say steaming is best because it is gentle heat, which will not toughen the meat. Others say boiling seals the flavor into the lobster. Baking is another option, but the lobster should be quickly boiled or steamed beforehand.Vermont Country SaladVermont Cheddar Cheese: A firm yellow or orange cheese made from cow’s milk. One of the most difficult and most expensive cheeses to make It requires consistent milk quality and the process of cheddaring, whereby curds are stacked to force out the whey. True Cheddar cheese is made only in the summer months from the milk of one herd, from one specific farm.Other Cheddar cheese is called “factory Cheddar.” It ranges from mild to extra sharp.Poached Haddock with Mussels and Julienne of VegetablesHaddock was chosen for this recipe—it is not an endangered species.Maine is the largest U.S. producer of blue mussels. Blue mussels grow wild on rocks and pilings. Mussels can be farmed on ropes or in mesh tubes suspended from rafts.Mussels have beards, or byssus threads, used to anchor themselves to a growing medium. The beard should be removed prior to cooking.Bags or containers of mussels should display the license number of the shipper to assure they have been purchased from certified growers who harvest in approved, clean areas.Sauté Chicken with Apples and PearsAbout 40 varieties of apples are commonly grown in New England. Many varieties were discovered here and have been grown for centuries.The most popular today are McIntosh, Cortland, New England Red Delicious, Empire, and Rome .The New England apple industry is still largely family owned and orchards are an important community resource.Brown Butter CauliflowerAMOUNTMEASUREINGREDIENT2 cups12 ounces, 336 gCauliflower, cut into pea-sized florets (half a head)½ cup 4 ounces, 120 ml Butter¼ cup1 ½ ounce, 42 gShallots, minced1 tablespoon  Garlic, minced1 tablespoon  Chives, minced To taste Salt and pepper    Heat a 10-inch (25.4-cm) sauté pan over medium heat. Melt butter and cook until the milk solids caramelize and the butter has a nutty odor, 1 minute. Add cauliflower and cook until al dente, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic, sauté 1 minute. Add chives, correct seasoning and serve. This recipe was chosen to show how a simple technique will enhance flavor. Note: it is very easy to go from a “brown butter” to a “burnt butter”SnickerdoodlesSnickerdoodles are drop cookies and have been cited in print from at least 1889German in origin, and that the name is a corruption of the German word for “snail dumpling” They characterized by a cracked surface. This cookie may be crisp or soft depending on the cook’s preferenceRoast Turkey RouladeTurkey: A large fowl indigenous to the New World. The conquistadors took them to Europe; from there, they were introduced in other parts of the world. Today’s domesticated turkeys differ from wild turkeys, with the exceptionally large breasts that breeding produces.Boston Baked BeansThe Indians of New England slow-cooked beans in underground pits inside deer hides, with maple sugar and bear fat.The Puritans’ belief in minimal work on the Sabbath led to the widespread practice of making beans on Saturday, to be eaten on Sunday.Boston Brown BreadA traditional colonial sweet bread served on Saturday evenings with baked beans.Boston brown bread is made from cornmeal, molasses, and both rye and whole wheat flours. It is steamed in a large can or mold.Bluefish with Clams and Fresh Corn CakesBluefish: A round saltwater fish ranging in size from 3 to 6 poundsThe bluefish has a blue-silver skin and dark, oily flesh. Bluefish has a strong and distinctively rich taste, and it takes well to strong flavors.It is well suited for smoking, broiling, and sautéing.It must be used quickly, as its freshness decreases rapidly. It is known as a sportsman’s “trophy fish” because of its fierceness and fighting nature.