The Cuisine of Hawaii

Chapter 11 The Cuisine of HawaiiAmerican Regional CuisineThe Hawaiian Islands are some of the most recent and some of the most isolated islands on earth. Before the arrival of the first populations, the islands essentially grew nothing edible. Everything that the people of Hawaii eat has been brought in or introduced since then. From the Pacific Islanders who first reached the Hawaiian Islands, followed by the European voyages of discovery, to the migration of laborers to the sugar plantations, and now the focus on foods grown in the Islands, Hawaii offers a transparent look at the development of a society and a cuisine.Hawaii is “The Aloha State.” The word aloha means both “hello” and “good-bye.” The state fish is the humuhumunukunuku apuaa (the Hawaiian alphabet has only 12 letters: a, e, i, o, u, h, k, l, m, n, p, and w), also known as the rectangular triggerfish.History of the Islands History of the Islands Cont.The people who first lived in this part of the world are called “Polynesians;” the name means “people of the many islands.” Hawaii is a chain of 132 islands that extend for more than 1,500 miles. The eight main islands are Hawaii (the Big Island), Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Molokai, Lanai, Nihau, and Kahoolawe. The islands have absorbed wave after wave of immigrants bringing bits and pieces from their homelands to create a unique people of blended ancestry. In addition to those of Polynesian descent and whites and blacks from the mainland United States, Hawaii’s population includes people of Chinese, Filipino, Japanese, Korean, and Portuguese ancestry. All have contributed customs to what has become Hawaiian culture.First VisitorsIn the late 1700s, Captain James Cook of the British Navy, searching for the Northwest Passage to lead from Europe to Asia, discovered Hawaii. During the early 19th century, the Hawaiian Islands were ruled by four chiefs. But in the 1780s, Kamehameha I—the ruling chief of Hawaii Island—defeated the other chiefs and united the islands. During Kamehameha’s rule, Hawaii began to trade with other countries. As trade grew, Christian missionaries came to the islands. Political struggles between the missionaries and the Hawaiian natives weakened the established religious and social systems. In 1893, Queen Liliuokalani, a descendant of King Kamehameha, was removed from the throne by powerful U.S. and European landowners, and the Hawaiian monarchy was ended. After World War II, statehood became a major issue, and in 1959, Hawaii became the 50th state.A Most Diverse CultureThe Polynesian natives brought their own foods, such as taro, breadfruit, coconuts, sweet potatoes, sugarcane, pineapples, and bananas. They also brought small pigs to start their new lives in Hawaii. When sailors traveling from the Americas to Asia stopped in Hawaii, and brought with them salted meats and fish, sea biscuits, and a limited supply of fruit and vegetables. Later, in the 1820s, missionaries from the East Coast of the United States came to Hawaii and brought staples they were accustomed to in New England, such as potatoes, apples, salt cod, corned beef, cheese, and butter.Sugar and PineappleBy the end of the 19th century, sugar and pineapple plantations had taken over much of Hawaii’s land, and the crops were the two most important sources of revenue for the Hawaiian economy. As the sugar crops grew, so did the demand for labor, encouraging tens of thousands of people to emigrate to Hawaii. The plantation owners hired contract workers, and substantial numbers of Chinese, Japanese, Filipinos, Koreans, and Portuguese came to work. Each group demanded its own food on the plantations, and small farms, market gardens, and fishing operations were established.The Chinese replaced the poi—the thick, gray paste pounded from the taro root— with rice and relied on their own herbs and spices. The Japanese brought their favorite vegetables, noodle soups, and stir-fry techniques. They packed their lunches to take to the fields, and plate lunches or bento (box lunch) became common. Though many of the familiar vegetable seeds they had carried with them from Japan would not grow in Hawaii’s climates, the Japanese succeeded in making tofu and soy sauce. Japanese InfluenceThe Portuguese introduced their favorite foods with an emphasis on pork, tomatoes, peppers, souring agents and spices, and sausages. They also built their traditional Portuguese beehive bread oven, or forno, which allowed them to make their pao doce (sweet bread). It is said they also introduced the Japanese to tempura and the Koreans to hot chiles. The Koreans brought their giant crocks of kim chee and adobo stews, and built their barbecue pits to cook their marinated meats.Portuguese InfluenceThe massive Hawaiian pineapple industry began when James Dole planted his first pineapple trees on the island of Oahu in 1901. In 1922, he purchased the island of Lanai for the purpose of large-scale production, and by 1950, his was the largest pineapple company in the world. But since the 1970s, with crops grown more cheaply in places such as Southeast Asia, Hawaii has taken a much more diverse posture with regard to its agricultural output. The Pineapple IndustryHawaiian FoodMost important edible plants to the first voyagers was taro. For centuries, it was the main staple of their diet, and it is still served at luaus and important ceremonial occasions. The entire taro plant is edible, and there are hundreds of different varieties. The corm of the wetland taro makes the best poi, as well as taro starch or flour. The dry-land variety has a crispy texture and is used for making taro chips, and the smaller Japanese variety is used in stewed dishes. The heart-shaped, deep green leaves and stalks can be cooked as a vegetable, much like turnip greens or other leaf vegetables, or used to wrap other ingredients. The tops of the taro are saved for replanting. “Local food” is the term used in Hawaii to describe how the immigrants adapted to their new lives by using what were new foods to them on the sugar plantations. The food they found was unfamiliar and they had to adapt their cooking methods to create their meals from what was provided and what they brought with them. Local food is best exemplified in the plate lunch, which is served from a plate lunch wagon that can be found around the islands, outside of office buildings, in parks, or by the beaches.Made up of two scoops of rice, a scoop of salad (usually potato salad or macaroni salad), and meat, chicken, or fish heaped on a plate to be eaten with chopsticks, salt and pepper, and soy sauce.The meat could be a large portion of kalua pig (pit-cooked pork), curry stew, shoyu chicken (chicken simmered in soy sauce), or fried fish. Local FoodLocal Food Cont.Other favorites such as Portuguese sausage, Chinese sausage, Spam, sweet and sour pork, teriyaki beef, chicken katsu (a breaded and fried cutlet), Kal bi (Korean barbecued short ribs), char siu (Chinese roast pork), manapua (savory stuffed buns), and musubi (rice ball) exemplify local food. Teenagers in Hawaii consider themselves responsible for the frequently found loco moco. Designed to replace sandwiches and typical Asian foods, loco moco is now found in small local restaurants. It is two scoops of rice topped with a hamburger patty and a fried egg, then topped with a generous serving of gravy over the entire meal. Saimin, the Hawaiian version of an Asian noodle soup, is prepared many ways, typically using the somen noodle, broth, and any choice of additional ingredients and seasoning and is served for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.Local Food Cont.The Hormel Company’s canned meat product Spam (spiced ham) is still considered an important protein, a result of wartime rationing after fishing around the Islands during World War II was prohibited. Most commonly fried and served with rice, it can also be wrapped in ti leaves and roasted, used as a stuffing for wontons, skewered and deep-fried, or used in stir-fry dishes. A Spam musabi is made by using a rectangle of sticky rice, topped with a fried slice of Spam, and wrapped with a piece of dried seaweed.The most frequent snack food is any choice of preserved fruits that may be sweetened, or salted and called “crack seed.” Brought by the Chinese immigrants, it refers to the seed of the fruits that are often left in, and crack for the cracking of the seed to expose the kernel.The Fish of HawaiiThe ethnic cuisines rely on Hawaii’s coastal and offshore fisheries. Hawaiian fish are defined in four categories:TUNA: Tuna is the most important commercial fish in Hawaii. Varieties include skipjack or bonito (aku), the big eye or yellowfin tuna (ahi), and albacore (tombo). A large part of the catch goes to Japan to be sold for sashimi. In Hawaii, they are favored for sashimi or poke but are also good grilled or sautéed. BILLFISH: Most common during the summer, these sport fish are known locally as au.On the mainland they are known as marlins and swordfish. Like tuna, they can be very large, from 100 to 300 pounds. The Pacific blue marlin (known as kajiki) has amber flesh that turns white when cooked. It is good barbecued or grilled, but because this fish has a very low fat content, it should not be overcooked. The broadbill swordfish (shutome) is very popular and shipped all over the continental United States. The flesh is white to pinkish, and the meat is tender and mild to the taste. This fish is high in fat and steaks may be grilled, broiled, or used in stir-fries.BOTTOM FISH:The groupers or sea bass, known as hapuu, are noted for their clear white flesh and delicate taste. They are most often steamed. The ruby snapper (onaga) is small with a delicate flavor when steamed, poached, or baked. The pink snapper (opakapaka) is very popular, with a higher fat, light pink flesh, often steamed or baked and served with a light sauce. OTHER OPEN OCEAN FISH:The best known are the wahoo (known as ono), with its moist, white flesh that is good grilled or sautéed.The dolphin fish (mahimahi), which is usually cut into steaks and fried or grilled.The moonfish (opah) with large grained flesh ranging from pink to red, and is good for broiling, smoking, and making sashimi. The Fish of Hawaii Cont.Mango Carrot SoupFor carrot juice without a juice machine:Wash 2 pounds (896 g) carrots.Process the carrots in a blender or food processor until finely chopped; add a little water if necessary. Add 2 cups (16 ounces/480 ml) hot water and stir to combine. Let steep for 30 minutes. Strain the carrot juice; press the mash to extract as much juice as possible.Crispy Curry TofuPonzu Hanger Steak, Charred Green Onion Emulsion,Roasted Carrots, and WatercressThe hanger steak is a thick strip of meat from the underside of the cow. It hangs between the rib and the loin. It is flavorful but can be tough if not prepared correctly. There is only one hanging tender to a steer, which is why hanger steaks were called “the butcher’s cut.” Butchers would take them home for their family meals. Grilled Ono with Pineapple Chutneyon Jewels Israeli CouscousOno is a Hawaiian word meaning “good to eat.” The fish of that name is more commonly known as wahoo, and is a close relative of king mackerel. All Hawaii wahoo are line-caught. Wahoo is a lean fish with a mild-sweet taste and firm texture. Caramelized Salmon with Orange-Shoyu GlazeAhi Tuna and Vegetable Salad with Sherry VinaigretteSaimin with Teriaki Meat SticksDeep Fried Calamari Salad